Tuscany – The Last Stop, May 2019

I will confess that Tuscany was not a high interest destination for me. I am a bit of a contrarian when it comes to places and things that everyone else just can’t seem to live without. Maybe those places or things just don’t live up to my expectations, exposed to so much hype. I had also been in Tuscany, just a couple of years ago with friends following a walking tour of Umbria. That was hugely fun – but so were the people we were with. The people we were with this time were definitely fun, too, but we didn’t know them well enough to get into the raucous belly-laughing that accompanies get-togethers with friends from one’s childhood.

Tuscan farm

Another factor that may have contributed to my less than enthusiast embrace of Tuscany was the lingering problem with my back. It kept me out of commission the entire first day we were in Tuscany.

Tuesday, May 14

As I mentioned in the last sentence of the Abruzzo blog, on May 14th we drove from Abruzzo to Tuscany. Our destination was the Agriturismo Il Rigo just outside of San Quirico d’Orcia. I slept most of the way because of the back drugs. Once settled in our room, the group met for dinner in the hotel’s dining room. Like other agriturismi, you do not need to be a guest to eat here, but most of those in the dining room were.

This agriturismo was run by Eddie’s old friend Lorenza and her husband. They are now retired, and have given over the management of the hotel to their daughter and her husband. Lorenza still relishes her role as greeter of all the guests and the friendly face of the place. Her lively personality infuses everything with a joy that is palpable, but not cloyingly effusive.

I could not resist walking to see where that arched doorway led…

Wednesday, May 15th

We had a meeting after breakfast and, this being our first day, we studied maps and talked over the attractions in the area and good places to go and take pictures. Gerry and I decided on Pienza.

I thought my back was okay.

We made it to to Pienza but I had to come back because of the pain. The day was cold and overcast. I was chilled and downcast. I spent the entire day with pills and a hot water bottle. Gerry brought dinner in.

This was the view on the other side of that arched doorway.

Thursday, May 16^th

Finally, I woke up with out pain. Yeah! Gerry and I left early to go to Pienza for a dentist appointment for Gerry. We were back in time to go to the cooking class with our group. Jean and Deborah rode with us.

Along on of the main streets through San Quirico

Our class was conducted in Lorenza’s house in San Quirico d’Orcia. To call it a house is a gross understatement, because the building is a palazzo, in Lorenzo’s husband’s family for generations. For the class we worked in the kitchen and in a small dining room on the ground level. We prepared ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese (nothing like the ricotta we buy in the supermarket in the US) mixed with tons of greens, basically wild field greens. Lorenza complained that they were bitter, too late in the season, but most of us found the taste perfect to offset the smooth, creaminess of the ricotta and the sauce which was made with walnuts, parmesan cheese, raw garlic, marjoram and bread soaked in milk. We also prepared rabbit, braised with onions and white wine. But, the first thing we tackled was dessert! Cucunate – like biscotti, but sweet. Ours were made with almonds. We learned that the name “biscotti” means “twice cooked.” We prepared the dough into long rolls and baked them for about 30-45 minutes until the outside was just a little hard. Then we removed them from the oven and cut them into slices. They acquire the half-moon shape because like most cookies they do spread out just a little. Sliced on the diagonal they went back onto the baking sheet on their sides for the second cooking – about 10 minutes. That is how they acquire their hardness – the quality that means they will keep for a very long time. We enjoyed them after our rabbit and mashed potatoes, with a glass of vin santo.

San Quirico d’Orcia

Once we had the meal prepared, we all sat down and ate together,. After lunch Lorenza gave us a tour of the palazzo. Upstairs from the kitchen where we worked was the real home of the house. Here, too, there was a small kitchen, a lovely dining room, and wonderful large living room, and a “sun” room. It was very grand and at the same time familiar. Lorenza showed us her “paradise” a lovely garden of potted trees and flowers. She commented that a house like theirs was nearly impossible to sell because the upkeep is never-ceasing and expensive.

Church of San Quirico & Giulitta

Afterwards, we took short walk in the town of San Quirico d’Orcia, sleepy at this hour of the siesta. On the way back to the hotel, again with with Jean and Deborah, we detoured to find some poppies. As I reviewed my pictures of this part of my trip I realized what a large part of it was flower-focused. That is one of the big benefits of traveling in the spring. Be sure to keep it in mind when you plan your next trip. Here’s a plethora of flower images to enjoy!